Swimming Pool Water Balancing
How do I balance pool water pH?
(Optimal Range = 7.2 – 7.6)
The most important component of pool water is pH. If pH is too high, (above 7.6),
the result is cloudy water.
pH
Reducer will effectively lower the pH to the required levels. If pH is below
7.2, objects in the pool will corrode and swimmers may experience skin irritation.
To keep pH in its desired range of 7.2-7.6, simply add
pH
Increaser or
pH
Reducer as necessary.
How do I balance Alkalinity?
(Optimal Range = 80 – 120 ppm)
Alkalinity, in its desired range of 80-120 ppm, will help keep your pH level from
fluctuating. When total alkalinity is above 120 ppm, pH will gradually rise. Adding
pH Reducer
will lower the total alkalinity to its required level. When alkalinity is below
80 ppm, simply add
Alkalinity
Increaser. If alkalinity remains low, it will be difficult to keep pH levels
in the desired range.
How do I balance Calcium Hardness?
(Optimal Range = 200 – 350 ppm)
Calcium hardness is an integral component to water chemistry that prevents corrosion
and cloudy water.
- When calcium hardness is above 350 ppm, the water tends to become cloudy.
Stain
Away reverses the effects of high calcium hardness.
- When calcium hardness is below 200 ppm, corrosion of metals in your pool will
occur. Calcium
Hardness Increaser returns calcium hardness to the required levels.
How do I balance Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid)?
(Optimal Range = 30 – 60 ppm)
Stabilizer
(cyanuric acid) is used to prevent the rapid evaporation of chlorine. A dosage
of 1-2/3 lbs. Per 100,000 gallons of water should decrease the amount of chlorine
consumed during the season.
Sanitation (Chlorine or Bromine)
Chlorine levels must be between 1-3 ppm. There are four forms of chlorine:
Which variety of chlorine you choose is a matter of personal preference, however,
3”
Tablets are the most popular variety and can easily be used in floating
chlorine dispensers or simply placed in your skimmer basket.
Bromine levels
must be between 2-4 ppm. Bromine is only available in 1”
Tablets and must be dispensed by an automatic
feeder.
ALGAE
What causes algae and how can I get rid of it?
Algae are the microscopic aquatic plants that are constantly being introduced
into the pool water from the atmosphere. If not kept under control, algae can
discolor your pool water, clog your filter, cause unpleasant odors and produce
slimy, slippery walls and floor. Algae growth is common when the
sanitizer
level in the water is low or neglected. If the
sanitizer
is maintained at the proper level at all times, algae will never be able to grow.
There are different types of algae, each with a different treatment. (below)
Algae types and treatment
- Green Algae: The most common form of algae, it is identified by a cloudy
green water appearance.
Treatment: Shock
treat the pool at a rate of one pound per 10,000 gallons. Add Algaecide
(non-metallic) according to bottle directions.
- Mustard Algae: A difficult algae to control, it is identified by a
cloudy greenish-yellow water color.
Treatment: Shock
treat the pool at a rate of one pound per 10,000 gallons. Add Yellow
Out according to bottle directions.
- Black Algae: Very dark green slippery patches clinging to walls and
floors.
Treatment: Good circulation of water around the affected area is very important.
Direct return line fittings towards the area, and if you have a main drain be
sure it is open. First, use a brush to help loosen and expose the algae. Add Pool
Shock at the rate of 2 lbs. per 5,000 gallons until the free chlorine level
reads 5-10 ppm. Make sure you are using a test
kit or test strips that read free chlorine. Add a dose of Black
Algaecide. Test the pH of the water and lower it to 7.0 using pH
Reducer. Keep brushing the affected area periodically, and re-test the free
chlorine level. Add Shock at the rate of 1 lb. per 5,000 gallons to maintain the
free chlorine level at 5-10 ppm until the algae is gone. The filter system should
be run continuously until the algae is brushed off. After the algae is eliminated
restore the pH level to the optimum range (7.2-7.6 ppm) and resume normal chlorination.
To avoid future black algae problems add a dose of Black Algaecide weekly.
- Pink Algae: Frequently called "red algae”, this is actually a bacteria
that originates from salt water. The best prevention is to thoroughly wash with
bleach all items that have come in contact with salt water before allowing them
into your pool area.
Treatment: Shock
pool at rate of 1 pound per 10,000 gallons until bacteria disappears.
Note: If an algae problem exists, the filtration system should be run
continuously for a minimum of 72 hours, and the pool surface should be brushed
daily. This will remove dead layers of algae and allow the chemicals to combat
the remaining layers of algae growth.
Water Balance Guide
| Reading |
Description |
Ideal Range |
|
Chlorine
|
Chlorine Disinfectant - most common sanitizer in pools. Chlorine residual (chlorine
remaining after all reactions and dissipations have occurred) is measured in parts
per million (ppm).
|
1.0 to 3.0 ppm
|
|
Bromine
|
Alternative sanitizer to chlorine Ð bromine is not as harsh on skin, eyes,
hair and swim wear as chlorine. Bromine residual is measured in ppm.
|
3.0 to 4.0 ppm
|
|
pH
|
pH level is the acid/base content of water. Proper levels should be maintained
in order to prevent eye/skin irritation as well as surface and equipment damage.
|
7.2 to 7.6 ppm
|
|
Total Alkalinity
|
Total Alkalinity is the measure of certain minerals in the pool water. These
minerals act as a buffering agent that allow for the control of pH levels.
|
100 to 150 ppm
(plaster pools)
175 to 250 ppm
(fiberglass, vinyl or painted pools)
|
|
Calcium Hardness
|
Calcium hardness is the level of calcium and magnesium minerals in the water.
These minerals exist naturally in all water.
|
225 to 300 ppm
(gunite pools)
175 to 250 ppm
(fiberglass, vinyl or painted pools)
|
|
Stabilizing Chemicals
|
Stabilizers prevent ultra-violet rays of the sun from prematurely dissipating
chlorine. Also referred to as cyanuric acid.
|
40 to 100 ppm
|
