Pool Cleaning and Servicing Tools
Some of the most commonly used pool cleaning tools are described in next section.
You may have used them one time or the other to cleanse your pool.
Telepoles
Telescoping pole or telepole is heart of the cleaning system. Telepoles are
made of aluminum or fiberglass. There are several sizes, from a 4-foot pole that
telescopes to 8 feet, all the way up to a 12-foot pole that telescopes to 24 feet
(by pulling the inner pole out of the outer one). The one you will use most on
pools is 8 feet long, telescoping to 16 feet. The end of the pole has a handgrip
or a rounded tip to prevent your hand from slipping off the pole. The tip might
also include a magnet for picking up hairpins or nails from the pool bottom. To
lock the two poles together, there is a cam lock or compression nut ring.
When you purchase your first telepole, take it apart and observe how this cam
system works. Sooner or later, scale, corrosion, or wear and tear will clog or
jam the cam. Rather than buy an entirely new telepole, you can take it apart,
clean it up, replace the cam if necessary, and get on with the job.
The other locking device for telepoles is a compression nut ring. By twisting
the ring at the joint of the two poles, pressure is applied to the inner pole,
locking the two together.
At the end of the outer pole you will notice two small holes drilled through
each side, about 2 inches from the end and again about 6 inches higher. The various
tools you will use are designed to fit the diameter of the pole. You attach them
to the pole by sliding the end of the tool into the end of the pole. Small clips
inside the tool have nipples that snap into place in one of these sets of holes,
locking the tool in place. other tools are designed to slip over the circumference
of the pole, but they also use a clip device to secure the tool to the holes at
the end of the telepole.
Leaf Rake/Skimmer
Leaf rakes are used to remove the leaf and other debris from the pool. The
net itself is made from stainless steel mesh and the frame is aluminum with a
generous 16-inch wide opening. There are numerous leaf rakes (deep net) and skimmer
nets(shallow net) you can buy, but only the one pictured will last. The cheap
ones are made from plastic net material and frames. Although the original price
is about twice that of the cheap ones, metal ones last a long time and resist
tearing when you are scooping out huge volumes of wet leaves after a windy autumn
day. They also stand up to rubbing them along rough plaster surfaces, thanks to
a rubber-plastic gasket that fits around the edge, unlike the plastic rakes that
break or wear down when you apply such pressures.
The leaf rake shank fits into the telepole and clips in place as described
previously. Some leaf rakes are designed so you can disassemble them and replace
the netting, which is fine if you have the time and patience to do it.
Wall
and Floor Brush
Wall brush are used to remove the dirt, stains and other material sticking
on the interior surface. The wall brush is designed to brush pool and spa interior
surfaces. Made of an aluminum frame with a shank that fits the telepole, the nylon
bristles are built on the brush either straight across or curved slightly at each
end.
The curved unit is useful for getting into pool corners and tight step areas.
Wall brushes come in various sizes, the most common for pool use being 18 inches
wide. Don't ever use a wire brush that is not stainless steel in a pool or spa.
Steel bristles can snap off during brushing and leave stains on the plaster when
they rust. Also, if they are a bit rusty already, when you brush the plaster you
will transfer the rust to the plaster, causing a stain.
Vacuum
Head and Hose
Vacuum are used to suck the dirt out of the pool or spa. There are two ways
to vacuum the bottom of a pool or spa. One sucks dirt from the water and sends
it to the filter. The other uses water pressure from a garden hose to force debris
into a bag that you then remove and clean (leaf vacuum).
The vacuum head and hose are designed to operate with the pool or spa circulation
equipment. The hose is attached at one end to the bottom of the skimmer opening
and at the other end to the vacuum head. The vacuum head is also attached to the
telepole. With the pump running, you glide the vacuum head over the underwater
surfaces, vacuuming up the dirt directly to the filter.
Vacuum heads are made of flexible plastic, with plastic wheels that keep the
head just above the pool surface. The flexibility of the head allows it to contour
to the curvature of pool corners and bottoms. Adjustable-height wheels allow you
to set the vacuum head to the best clearance for each pool's conditions. The closer
to the surface, the better the removal of dirt. But if the suction is too great,
it might suck the vacuum head right onto the surface, rendering it immobile. In
this case, adjust the head height upward.
Wheels for vacuum heads are made of plastic or high-tech composite resins.
Their bearing systems can be as simple as a hole in the wheel through which the
axle is inserted or wheels with ball bearings to distribute the load and help
the vacuum glide smoothly.
Some commercial vacuum heads are made several feet wide and are built of stainless
steel. Another type is a plastic helmet style, with a ridge of bristles instead
of wheels. This vacuum head is used for vinyl pools, fiberglass spas, and when
breaking in new plaster. In each of these cases, standard wheels can tear or score
the surface. The brush vacuum is not only less harsh, but it brushes dirt loose
from the surface being vacuumed for easier removal.
Hoses are available in different models, and in various lengths (10 to 50 feet).
The hose cuff is made 1 1/4- or 1 1/2-inch diameter to be used with similar vacuum
head dimensions. Cuffs are female threaded at the end that attaches to the hose
so you can screw replacement cuffs onto a hose. The best cuffs swivel on the end
of the hose, so when you are vacuuming there is less tendency for the hose to
coil and kink. Another valuable hose fitting is the connector. It is designed
with female threads on both ends to allow joining of two hose lengths-a useful
feature when you encounter a large or extremely deep pool.
Leaf
Vacuum and Garden Hose
The Leaf vacuum is used when there are many leaves or other debris in the pool.
Its effectiveness is dependent on the water pressure form the garden hose. Leafmasters
are made in rigid plastic or aluminum.
The leafmaster is one which is attached to the telepole and a garden hose,
operates by forcing water from the hose into the unit where it is diverted into
dozens of tiny jets that are directed upward toward a fabric bag on top of the
unit. The upwelling water creates a vacuum at the base of the plastic helmet,
sucking leaves and debris into the unit and up into the bag. Water passes through
the mesh of the bag but the debris is trapped.
Fine dirt passes through the filter bag, but a fine-mesh bag is sold for these
units that will capture more dirt. When the bag has a few leaves in it, they will
also trap much of the sand and other fine particulate matter that would otherwise
pass through.
The only other drawback to the leafmaster is if you are in a location where
water pressure from the garden hose is weak. The result is weak jet action and
weak suction. The other result is that as debris fills the bag, the weight of
it (especially wet leaves) tips the bag over, scraping the pool floor, stirring
up debris, or tangling with the hose. The latter problem is easily solved by putting
a tennis ball in the bag before placing it in the pool. The tennis ball floats,
keeping the bag upright.
To remove the leaf vacuum, turn it slightly to one side and slowly lift it
through the water to the surface. If pulled straight up, some of the debris is
forced out of the bag and back into the pool. So do not turn off the water till
the leafmaster is out of the pool water and on to the deck.
Tile
Brush and Tile Soap
Tile brush is used to clean the tile. Tile brushes are made to snap into your
telepole so you can scrub the tile without too much bending. Mounted to a simple
L-shaped, two-part aluminum tube, the brush itself is about 3-by-5 inches with
a fairly abrasive foam pad for effective scrubbing.
Tile soap is sold in standard preparation at the supply house. Mix one part
of muriatic acid to five parts of soap. This will help cut the stubborn stains
and oils, but it will also eat into the plastic on the tile brush pads and plastic
barbecue grill brush handle, so keep rinsing them in pool water after each application
and scrubbing. Don't use other types of soap in place of tile formulations, because
they might foam and suds up when they enter the circulation system.
Spa
Vacuum
Cleaning a spa is much like cleaning a pool, only many of the tools are smaller.The
smaller version of the leaf vacuum is called spa vacuum. It works on the same
principle using a garden hose for water pressure to create suction. The dirt and
debris are forced into a small sock and, like the leaf vacuum bag, fine dirt passes
through the bag.
The spa vacuum attaches to the telepole and is provided with various attachments,
much like a household vacuum cleaner, for getting into crevices or brushing while
you vacuum. The spa vacuum is also a useful tool for sucking up small hairpins,
nails, coins, or other hard to grab items from the bottom of pools.
Pumic Stones
Pumic stone are used to remove the scale from tiles and other deposits or stains
from plaster surfaces without scratching them excessively. The soft pumice stone
is made from volcanic ash and is used for its abrasive action. Pumice stones are
sold as blocks, and as small bladed stones that attach to your telepole for reaching
tight spaces and underwater depths. Since pumice stones disintegrate, it is advisable
to scrub before you vacuum clean the pool. A good alternative to pumice, which
scratches easily on fiberglass, is a block of styrofoam or similar plastic foam.
Acid Spotter
Many leaves will stain plaster, but they bleach out with normal chlorination
over a few days. Some stains simply cannot be removed, such as when rebar or a
rebar tie has started to corrode from beneath the pool floor.
The acid spotter is a useful tool, which allows you to deliver full-strength
acid to a stain at the bottom of a body of water. The disc portion attaches to
the telepole for placement over a stained area. A small plastic hose runs from
the disc to a bottle of muriatic acid on the deck. You start a siphon and drain
acid into the disc, where it is kept in direct contact with the stain. It is time-consuming
and not always necessary.
Water
Testing Kits
Test kits and Thermometers are important part of cleaning and maintenance.
Using your test kit, perform the necessary test to make chemical adjustments in
the water. Pool and Spa owners must still conduct home tests of their pool or
spa water at least once a week.
A thermometer is needed to check heater performance, spa temperatures, and
other questions or concern about pool or spa water.
Automatic
Pool Cleaners
Different designs of automatic pool cleaner available today. Basically there
are two categories of automatic pool cleaner in common use today and three other
technologies which might be in use.
Electric Robot
The electric robot type are the automatic pool cleaner, are expensive and most
often found on large commercial pools. It is more like a battery-powered vacuum
cleaner with a bag that catches debris as the unit patrols the pool bottom.
Boosterless Water Pressure Designs
Booster Type
Some automatic cleaners work like your leaf vacuum, by sending a pressurized
stream of water up into a catch bag, creating a vacuum for the unit as it patrols
the bottom. The pressure is created by taking return water and boosting the pressure
with a separate pump and motor. This is the boostered type of automatic cleaner.
Boosterless
But in the Boosterless water pressure design there is a small variation in
the unit that uses the circulation pump itself as the booster, by connecting to
the return line after the pump but before the filter. This style is called boosterless
because it uses no separate water pressure boosting device. These units require
an automated valve and control system so that the heater doesn't try to operate
while the cleaning unit is in operation. This is the drawback of the system. If
the cleaner and heater are on simultaneously, the cleaner receives the return
water before the heater, thus starving the heater. Low water circulation in the
heater will cause it to shut off or overheat. Boosterless cleaners are not popular
units because you can't filter and heat the water at the same time you vacuum
debris, and also additional expensive plumbing and controls are needed.
Self-cleaning Systems
The bottom of the pool is fitted with a series of jets. These jets would push
the dirt from the shallow end to the deep end, each jet sweeping the dirt toward
the deepest part of the pool where the main drain would suck it into the filter
system. The jets are connected to a diverter at the circulation equipment area.
As the water leaves the heater destined for the pool, it passes through the diverter
which sends it to the floor jets on the shallow end first, then the deeper jets,
and so on. In this type of system it is presumed that the dirt will come loose
from the floor by these jets and not stick to the floor, and also the dirt will
be only of the finer type that will not clog the main drains. Last, it assumed
that these jets, would equally cover all areas of the bottom. Obviously, the jet
sweeping action is greatest near the source, then gets progressively weaker as
the jetstream moves outward, resulting in uneven cleaning. Some times the water
pressure may not be strong enough to power such a system.
This design creates stress on the entire plumbing and equipment system. When
the diverter switches flow from one set of jets to the next, the whole circulation
gets restricted or closed creating backpressure and stress on the entire system,
since this happens three to four times a minute.
Booster Pump Systems
As described earlier, booster pump systems take water after the filter and
heater, which is already on its way back to the pool, pressurizing it by a separate
pump and motor, then sending this high-pressure water stream through flexible
hoses into a cleaner that patrols the pool bottom.
The Booster pump systems are of two styles first is called a vacuum head type
which has its own catch bag for collecting debris, much like a vacuum cleaner.
The other type is sweep head type that floats on top of the water with long flexible
arms that swirl along the walls and bottom, stirring up the debris. A special
basket is fitted over the main drain so that the stirred-up debris is caught in
either the main drain or the skimmer and any fine dirt is filtered out normally.
Let us review the details of each type.
Vacuum head type
Polaris
Vac Sweep is the best example of this type. As with other pool and spa equipment,
if you understand the leading manufacturer's equipment, you will easily comprehend
the operating concepts of the others.
The vacuum unit is with a catch bag and pressurized water from the booster
pump enters the unit through the stalk and some is immediately jetted out the
tail. This water pressure causes the tail to sweep back and forth behind the unit
to brush loose any fine dirt on the bottom that is then filtered out by the pool
circulation system. The remainder of the water powers a turbine that has a horizontal
shaft with gear teeth to engage comparable gear teeth on the inside of the single
left-side wheel and the front right-side wheel. A small right-side drive wheel
transfers power to the trailing right-side wheel as the unit moves forward. Some
jetted water is diverted to the thrust jet which can be adjusted up or down to
help keep the unit from moving nose-up. The head float also serves this function
and keeps the unit upright.
Installation Vac Sweeps are available as preplumbed units, where the supply
pipe from the equipment to the pool area is plumbed into the original pool plumbing.
They are also available as over-deck models, which requires a garden hose be run
from the equipment area over the deck to the pool's edge. The booster pump and
vacuum unit are identical, only the plumbing between the two are different with
these two models. A complete installation guide is provided with the unit when
purchased.
Operation Here are few guidelines that will help you keep the vacuum head automatic
cleaner cleaning the pool efficiently. Always operate the booster pump with the
circulation pump working too. The booster is not self-priming, but relies on the
system circulation pump to provide water. If it runs dry, the plastic pump will
overheat and may burn out the seal.
Be careful to set the booster time clock to come on at least one hour after
the circulation pump and to go off at least one hour before the circulation pump
does for, more than that and you are just wearing out components. This allows
for slight time differences between the clocks. The vacuum head will cover as
much of the pool as it's going to cover in about three hours.
Then install the catch bag to capture fine dirt and sand. Empty the catch bag
as needed. Make sure the openings on the bottom and through the center of the
unit are not clogged with large leaves so there is always a clear path for the
debris to get into the bag.
Repairs Perhaps the simplest way to explain the few repairs needed by these
cleaners is to list the symptoms of the problems you might encounter.
If water is not flowing out one or more of the jets in the vacuum unit, it
may be because the jets inside the unit are small and grains of sand can clog
them. To catch these particles that get through the filter, install a fine-mesh
strainer at the point where the plumbing connects to the feeder hose. Sometimes
dirt or sand can, however, be picked up by the unit and clog any of the internal
jets. If this happens, there is probably sand or dirt in other parts of the unit
as well. Disassemble the unit carefully note how the unit comes apart so that
you will know exactly how to put it back and clean each part thoroughly. Use a
thin wire to clear out the jets. Follow the path of the water and simply clean
it all out.
If vacuum head does not pick up debris, the water pressure supplied to the
vacuum might be too powerful for normal operation. This happens when the return
pressure is very strong. Special pressure reducing washers can be added at the
vacuum hose connection. These washers are smaller in diameter than the plumbing
so they restrict the amount of water that flows to the vacuum head.
If wheels are not turning, it is because over the period of time the metal
drive gear wears out the plastic drive gear inside the wheels. Check to make sure
the gears are meshing and that there are enough teeth on the inside of each wheel.
If they do not engage properly, replace them. If the wheels are sloppy, they will
also fail to properly engage with the drive gear. Replace the wheel bearings,
which simply pop in place like a pump seal. Sometimes the wheels are not turning
because the vacuum unit is not performing well then the booster pump is not getting
enough water because of restrictions in the main circulation system. Clean the
filter and circulation system and you will usually find that the automatic pool
cleaner works better.
If vacuum unit falls over, remove the head float by pulling it off of the stalk,
taking care not to break the stalk. If it is full of water, it is not floating
the unit upright, replace it.
The screws that secure the wheels are made of plastic. Over tightening will
snap them, breaking the screw. If this happens, replace the screw.
The tail assembly will be the first thing to wear out because it is constantly
sweeping the pool bottom and sides. Water will squirt out of parts of the hose
where it shouldn't, making the tail swing wildly. To help prevent this, the tail
is fitted with rubber rings that absorb the wear, so as you see these rings wearing
down, replace them before the tail goes.
Wheels seize up. Sometimes the drive wheel gets hung up and actually prevents
the wheels from turning. Since the tension for the drive wheel is spring loaded,
the tension will either be too much or too little, as the spring wears out. Remove
this drive wheel completely from the units. The turbine powers the front wheel
on the right side and the single wheel on the left side with the rear right-side
wheel just trailing behind. The unit works fine and the wheels never seize up.
Try it.
Unit gets caught in ladder, corner, or steps. The irregular-shaped pools that
are popular today are the automatic pool cleaner's nightmare. if all adjustments
and hose lengths are correct but you still have problems, a backup valve is the
answer. This valve shuts off the water supply to the vacuum unit about every five
minutes, shooting the water out of the valve to act as a jet to pull the unit
backwards. Read the directions that come with the backup valve for installation
and servicing instructions. They work very well.
If unit runs too fast, just skipping over the dirt, simply follow the simple
instructions provided and test the pressure at poolside to determine if pressure-reducing
washers are needed. On some pool systems the return water pressure is very strong,
and the vacuum head pressure is too great for normal operation. If so, this simple
reduction technique employs a washer with a smaller diameter than the plumbing,
thus restricting the amount of water that can flow to the vacuum head.
This pressure tester is a valuable tool to use when you suspect inadequate
pressure might be the cause of sluggish operation. Pressure values and test techniques
are explained in the installation booklet or test kit instructions.
Sweep head type
The Sweep head type is a booster pump that floats on the water and has long
,flexible, swirling arms that stir up the debris found along the pool walls and
bottom. Arneson is the best example of this type. The main drain uses suction
to pull the agitated debris into its basket which is removed and emptied when
full, the finer dirt getting caught in the filter.
If you service a pool with one of these units, they are not hard to maintain
or figure out. Installation, operation, and troubleshooting guidelines are very
much as described previously.
Suction-side Systems
Suction-side automatic pool cleaners uses the suction from the pool's skimmer.
In this design, a standard vacuum hose of 1-1/2 inch diameter is connected between
the skimmer suction opening at one end and a vacuum head that patrols the pool
bottom at the other end.
As the vacuum patrols the pool it collects leaves and other debris and sends
it to the pump strainer pot. When the pot fills with obstructions, suction is
dramatically reduced, causing the cleaner to become inefficient. To prevent this
keep the strainer pot clean or add a leaf collecting canister to the vacuum hose.
A simple in line canister is easier than the pump strainer pot and can be purchased
at a pool supply store. Troubleshooting will usually find leaves and debris clogged
somewhere in the system or the inability of the circulation pump to generate enough
suction to make the vacuum effective.
Pool Cleaning Procedures
There are a few basic procedures that are efficient and save time which any
one can follow. Determining the surface composition before starting the cleanup
procedure.
Deck and Cover Cleaning
Remove as much debris as possible from the pool or spa deck and cover before
removing it. A quick sweep or hosing can remove the debris near the pool. If the
cover is a floating type without a roller system, be sure to fold or place it
on a clean surface. Otherwise, when you put it back in place it will drag leaves,
grass, or dirt into the pool. If it is a mechanized cover system, any small amount
of standing water on top of the cover will slide off as you roll it up. If there
is greater amount of water motor will be laboring, so you will need to use the
water removal pump. Also be careful to avoid abrasive or sharp surfaces as you
drag the cover off of the pool.
Surface Skimming
Dirt floating on the surface of the water is easier to remove than to remove
it from the bottom. Remove floating debris off the surface, using a leaf rake
and telepole. As the net fills, empty it into a trash can or plastic garbage bag.
Do not empty your skimming debris into the garden or on the lawn for the debris
is likely to blow right back into the pool as soon as it dries out.
There is no particular method to skim, but as you do, scrape the tile line,
which acts as a magnet for small bits of leaves and dirt. The rubber-plastic edge
gasket on the professional leaf rake will prevent scratching the tile.
If there is scum or general dirt on the water surface, squirt a quick shot
of tile soap over the length of the pool. The soap will spread the scum toward
the edges of the pool, making it more concentrated and easier to skim off.
Tiles
Always do the tiles first. Dirt falls from the tiles as they are being cleaned
and settles to the bottom of the pool. If you need to remove stubborn stains with
a pumice stone, the pumice itself breaks down as you scrub, depositing debris
on the bottom.
Use the tile soap and tile brush to clean the tiles. Apply a squirt of tile
soap directly to the brush and start scrubbing. To remove stubborn stains and
oils, mix one part muriatic acid to five parts of soap. When cleaning tile, scrub
below the waterline as well as above. Evaporation and refilling can change the
water line. Never use really abrasive brushes or scouring pads to clean tiles
they may cause scratches.
Water Level
If you add an inch or so of water to the pool each time you service it, you
will probably keep up with normal evaporation. If you wait a few weeks until the
level is several inches low, it will take hours to fill. Never leave the water
on to fill by itself for it may take longer and most likely you may forget to
turn it off.
After rains you might need to lower the pool level. In this case, use your
submersible pump and a backwash hose or spare vacuum hose for the discharge. Alternatively,
you can run the pool circulation system and turn the valves to waste. If you use
this method, remember to return the valves to normal circulation.
Equipment Check
Checking your equipment and maintaining your support system is best way to
solve the small corrective problems.
Start by circulation system by following the path of the water. Clean out the
pool's skimmer basket and Emptying the contents of the skimmer basket into your
trash can or garbage bag.
Next, open the pump strainer basket and clean it. Check the pressure of the
filter. There is no point in checking it before cleaning out the skimmer and strainer
baskets, because if they are full the filter pressure will be low and will come
back up after cleaning the baskets. If the pressure is high, the filter might
need cleaning.
Now check the heater for leaves or debris. Turn the heater on and off a few
times to make sure it is operating properly. While the heater is running, turn
the pump off. The heater should shut off by itself when the pressure from the
pump drops. This is an important safety check.
Now check the time clock for the time of the day ; setting for the daily filter
runs; setting for the cleaner's clock. Always check the clocks because trippers
come loose and power fluctuations or some service work on household items unrelated
to the pool can also affect the clocks. Also, electromechanical time clocks are
not exactly precision instruments. One might run slightly faster than another,
so over a few weeks one might show a difference of an hour or more, upsetting
your planned timing schedule.
After the equipment check, look for leaks or other early signs of equipment
failure. Clean up the equipment area by removing leaves from around the motor
vents and heater to prevent fires, and clear deck drains of debris that could
prevent water from draining away from the equipment during rain.
Vacuuming
If the pool is not dirty, simply brush the walls and bottom, skipping the vacuuming
completely. If the pool or spa is dirty, however, you have two ways to clean it:
vacuuming to the filter or vacuuming with the leafmaster.
Vacuum to filter
Dirt collected from the pool or spa is sent to the filter of the circulation
system. This is Vacuuming to filter.
Run the circulation system correctly and that all suction is concentrated at
the skimmer port. Use your skimmer diverter for this process if dealing with a
single port skimmer. If the system includes valves for diversion of suction between
the main drain and the skimmer, close the main drain valve completely and turn
the open skimmer valve completely . If there are two skimmers in the pool, close
off one by covering the skimmer suction port with a tennis ball, there by increasing
the suction in the other one. On large pools, you might have to vacuum each half
separately.
Attach your vacuum head to the telepole and attach the vacuum hose to the vacuum
head. Slowly feed the hose straight down into the pool; water will fill the hose
and displace the air. When you have fed all the hose into the pool, there is water
at the other end.
To avoid draining the water from the hose keep it at water level, slide the
hose through the skimmer opening and into the skimmer. Attach the hose to the
diverter ( with two-port skimmers, insert the hose cuff into the skimmer's suction
port). The hose and vacuum head now have suction. The suction port might be in
the side of the pool below the skimmer in older pools. In this case you might
need to put tennis ball over the skimmer suction port to increase the suction
at the wall port. Make sure the hose does not contain a significant amount of
air for if air reaches the pump, you will lose prime. If this occurs, remove the
vacuum hose, re-prime the pump, then try again.
To Vacuum a pool or spa, work your way around the bottom and sides of the pool.
If the pool is dirty, vacuum slowly to pick all the dirt, for moving the vacuum
head too quickly, will stir up the dirt rather than suck it into the vacuum. If
the suction is strong it sucks the vacuum head to the pool surfaces, then you
need to adjust the skimmer diverter or valves to reduce the flow. You might also
need to lower the wheels on the vacuum head, raising the vacuum head itself. If
the suction is weak, you might want to lower the vacuum head or you might need
to move the head more slowly around the pool to vacuum it thoroughly.
If the pool is very dirty, strainer basket or filter may be filled. When suction
becomes weak, stop vacuuming and empty the strainer basket or clean the filter.
If the pool contains both fine dirt and leaves, the leaves will clog the strainer
basket. You can use a leaf canister, which is an inline strainer that collects
the leaves and allows fine dirt to pass on to the filter.
If the spa operates on the same circulation system, as the swimming pool, simply
lift the vacuum out of the pool and immediately place it into the spa. Do this
quickly because while the vacuum is out of the water, air enters the hose, causing
it temporarily to lose suction. There should be enough water in the line for it
to re-prime itself.
When you are finished, remove the vacuum head from the water. The suction will
rapidly pull the water from the hose so it is advisable to pull the vacuum head
from the pool and the suction end of the hose from the skimmer simultaneously,
remove the hose from the water, and drain it on the deck.
After removing the equipment from the pool, check the pump strainer basket
and filter for any debris. Clean if needed. Replace the skimmer basket.
Vacuum to leafmaster
Leafmaster is used instead of the vacuum if the pool is littered with leaves
or heavy debris, then allowing the fine dirt to settle and vacuuming to the filter.
A garden hose is attached to a water supply and then to the leafmaster. Clip
the leafmaster onto the telepole.
Place the leafmaster in the pool. Turn on the water supply and vacuum, covering
the pool floor and walls. Because the leafmaster is large, you can move it quickly
and vacuum the pool, taking care not to stir up the debris either by the non floating
type of hose or by moving the leafmaster too fast. Emptying the bag periodically
may be needed if there is too much of dirt in the pool.
Lift and remove the leafmaster slowly by turning it slightly to one side from
the water to the surface for pulling it straight up will force the debris back
into the pool. Do not turn the water supply off before removing the leafmaster
from the pool, the loss of vacuum action can dump the collected debris back into
the pool. When the leafmaster is on the deck, turn off the water supply and clean
out the collection bag.
Brushing
Brushing removes algae from surfaces of pools or spas. If they are not very
dirty, you can skip vacuuming but brush the walls and bottom of the pool, starting
from the shallow to the deep end. Directing the dirt toward the main drain so
it is sucked to the filter.
SPA AND WATER FEATURE CLEANING
The steps outlined for pool cleaning will work just as well for spas and water
features. Here are a few special tips about what you might encounter that is unique
to these bodies of water.
Many spas are made of fiberglass, so take care when vacuuming to avoid scratching
the surfaces.
Vacuum the corners of water features and small spas with the spa vacuum described
earlier.
Evaluate the spa or water feature when you arrive, before you invest a great
deal of time in cleaning. Test the chemistry first, so you can determine if you
are better advised to drain the unit rather than clean and treat it. If the water
or surfaces are very dirty, if the water is extremely hard or cloudy, if the dirt
is in among rocks and gravel where it might be very hard to reach, pump out the
water and clean the unit that way.
If you do drain a spa or water feature, be sure the equipment is turned off
at the breaker so the time clock won't turn it on before you are ready. You might
need to set up your submersible pump and go to another job while the unit is draining.
Your submersible has a small hole in the bottom to re-circulate the last inch
of water to avoid burning out it's seal, so you can let it run without worrying
that it will run dry.
Before you clean the spa or water feature, clean the filter and run some fresh
water (from the garden hose) through the circulation system to purge any dirty
water from the lines. Nothing is worse than draining, cleaning, and refilling
a spa only to turn the circulation back on and watch dirty water contaminate your
work.
Be extra careful with chemical testing and application. Most spas and water
features contain a tiny fraction of the volume of water in a pool, so they can't
absorb a mistake the way a pool might. It is better to add chemicals more slowly
and in less quantity than you think necessary. You can always add more, but it
is a real problem to remove any excess.
Water Testing and Application
Follow the general testing guidelines needed, testing for chlorine residual,
pH, total alkalinity, and acid (or base) demand, calcium hardness or total hardness
and total dissolved solids should be conducted one a month.
